Ascents as trad by Erica

Tricky!

Need to go back for the lead when it’s not so cold.

Little committing at the top, I had to go up and down a few times to work up the courage.

This was definitely the most difficult gear placing and heady climb I’ve done in a long time. My forearms were fine, but my mind was completely pumped.

I guess it’s pretty good

Whilst I didn’t do this clean, super happy to practice placing gear on pumpy terrain . I will be back when it’s not 30 degrees with no wind.

It’s a good time when you place all 4 hexes. Obvs a classic route

Chris lead the money pitch ya know. Some classy thrutching leads to a couple of nice jams

Just pitch one

A serious undertaking. We went up the night before to stash gear and locate abseil points using gps cords on thesarvo. Came back the next day but couldn’t thrown the rope down due to high winds….literally when we threw the rope over it flew up in the air. So stashed the rest of the gear and then came back the THIRD day! We fixed the first two raps as suggested. Third rap to deanos ledge is fine but has a bit of a traverse in it. The rap Off deanos ledge requires the first person to clip in a directional, and the second person to take it out. The fourth rap takes you to three hangers with a bull ring and they are all connected by tat (unless we got the wrong anchors). Here our ropes got stuck and we couldn’t pull them. We climbed up two pitches using the end of one of our doubles, untangled at deanos ledge then climbed out from there. We basically only climbed half the route and it took 7.5 hours with a lunch break. The pitches are solid at the grade and rock quality is suspect. Serious adventure climbing. Make sure you know your rope skills and are confident making decisions if things go wrong.

Alex did a beautiful assent! And then shortly after declaring it was time to untie and walk home, I thrashed my way up for an unlikely send. This is not grade 22 btw. Definitely minimum 23.

Very happy to onsight this as it’s definitely more traditional trad climbing and not something I’m particularly good at! And I got to place 4 hexes courtesy of Marc!

What a great route . Sent on the warm up shot tonight. Feeling very happy 😁

So great, although pitches 2 and 3 the rock quality was variable.

Very cooooool.

Just doing pitch one- this is a very good pitch of techy climbing .

So many bomber nuts !

Really happy to lead this. My trickiest trad lead to date, and got to place two rps! Gear inspiration from Andrew

I won’t be seconding this again unless the leader pays me $500 in advance for my pain …. Andrew .

Fun

Airy

With encouragement from Andrew

Tricky, got pumped and scared the first time and needed a second attempt

Fun, and interesting gear

Did it in two pitches with double ropes. Only lead the first two pitches . Will have to lead the crux ones next time

My first at the grade. Being 5’3 the most difficult part of this climb for me was the big move off the underclings.

Didnt take enough medium cams and then ran it out from the traverse to the top. 😳pretty chill climbing on the traverse though