Routes in Outaouais for selected grade

Another top-rope. This is a nice climb up the vertical face left of Hawk Watch.

Climb up to the ledge, then make a few technical moves to gain the arch. Step left onto the steep face which is scaled on unsuspectedly good holds. No pro past the arch.

Climb up the right side of the featured right arete of the face, pulling around and overhang at mid-height and exiting up a depression with loose blocks.

A great climb that follows a continuous right-slanting crack through a steep face then up a long corner, all the way to the top. Start at a big sloping ledge 2m off the ground.

1. (5.7 A1) Aid climb the thin right slanting crack through the steep face to ledges and a good belay up and left. (Or, go straight up the corner to an alternative belay above.)
2. (5.6 A1 or 5.9) From the belay, move back right to the narrow which is followed all the way up to a small niche (alternative 1st belay). Exit right of this to easier ground and a final steep corner. Belay at trees above. Walk down the far left end of the cliff or rappel from a bent pine tree down at the edge of the cliff. (30m rappel)

The obivous chimney/crack on the side of the buttress facing the Ottawa river.

Up the obvious cracked depression.

Climb the right side of the same face as Water Fact, finishing up a small right-facing corner.

The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3.

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

Top-rope the general line of the right arete of the face. Easier further right.

An unprotected face climb. The first ascent of the route was actually a street-shoe warm-up session that went a bit further than first intended.

Start at the right end of the roof. Make some steep moves to reach a wide crack leading up to another roof. Skirt the roof to the left following a crack to a ledge (huge nest) and to the large slinged pine tree at the top.

Climb up to a ramp which is followed rightwards out to the top.

An obvious huge roof can be seen above this climb. The route follows a diagonal line of bolts up to a ledge and small tree. Notice "Pascal hole" on the way up.

The right side of the slab. Successive small ledges, delicate moves. Belay at the top of Primordial Soup.

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

Climb the wide crack to bolt anchors on the right.

Start up Corruption, but a couple meters off the ground, climb a thin crack rightwards through an overhang and up to trees.

Belay and rappel from the cedar tree.

Located on the north-west facing steep lichenous face, this short route climbs up through the lichen using cracks.

Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff.

About 2m left of Main Corner is a thin crack that leads up to a ledge and a continuation of the crack above the ledge. 2 Bolts as anchors.

Start one terrace down from Back to the Wall.

Climb up the dihedrals to a couple ledges, then finish up the arete above.

This is one of the better protected climbs on this section of the cliff.

This has been climbed as a top-rope variation from the "Back to the Wall", but has recently had its own anchor installed and a bit of cleanup done on the route itself.

A prominent left facing corner 10m to the right of Arete and Ramp. Climb up to a square block. Pass it on the right, then continue up the corner, using the arete as desired. Finish up a short wall.

Opening move onto the initial ramp is unusually difficult, then rest of the climb goes at a comfortable 5.5.

Starts on the ramp just right of "Peggy" -- the lower of the two parallel ramps.

1. (5.6) Climb up the ramp immediately right of "Peggy", then traverse back left to belay on top of the square block of Peggy.

2. (5.6) Climb 3m up the corner, then step right onto the arete. Traverse right at more or less constant height all the way to "Piton Highway", up which the route finishes.

Original PG/R, but now can borrow bolts from several climbs that it crosses in what was, formerly, the badly run-out section, meaning it now is quite well protected.

Also, it can be climbed in a single pitch rope lengthwise, but two pitches is advisable for rope-drag issues.

At the far right of the climbable area, look for the obvious left-facing vertical corner. Climb this direct to a short wall, then up to a pair of bolts for anchors. A couple of bolts have recently been added in places that used to be protect by old pitons.

There are a couple variations: Piton Arete: use the Arete to bypass the hard moves in the corner. 5.6. Piton Byway: follow Piton Highway to the hard moves, traverse right on big holds, then up right of the Arete. 5.6

Start the same as "Piton Highway". Gain the arete and climb bypassing the corner. Finish as for "Piton Highway".

Follow "Piton Highway" to the first hard moves at the foot of the corner. Traverse 1m right on huge holds. Go straight up, keeping slightly right of Piton Highway/Arete until the final wall. Finish as per "Piton Highway".

Or, for a longer variation, start above the leaning boulder at the belay and climb directly up from there to the face right of the arete, and continue staying completely right of the line of Piton Highway/Arete until the finishing moves at the anchor.

The main feature of the left-hand side of the cliff is an arc-shaped overhang. Scramble up to belay directly below the center of the overhang. Traverse right and follow the obvious crack up and leftwards to the center of the overhang. Pull round the overhang at a thin crack to easy ground.

Start 20m left of the corner of One Pine, at a corner with a big ledge 3m off the ground, and with a smooth overhanging right wall.

Pitch 1 (5.6) Go up from the big ledge for a few feet, then go diagonally left to a clump of birch trees. (The trees can be reached by a scramble from the left.)

Pitch 2 (5.1) Climb up the broken corner behind the trees for 4m. Go right for 2m. (One can go straight up from here to intersect the last pitch of One Pine.) Go back left and up to a pine tree. Continue 4m past the tree to a short rightwards slanting ramp which is followed to another pine tree. Belay.

Pitch 3 (5.0) Easy slabby rock terraces.

Start at a large arched corner with a smooth right face, about 20m left of One Pine.

Climb this corner, then up towards some broken rock, over the broken rock then trending slightly leftwards continue upwards to the anchors for One Pine.

Start at the foot of the large corner (as per "Wall Climb"). Climb up about 3m to a large ledge, go slightly left, then up the wall to a corner. Follow the corner to a wide ledge. Exit right from the ledge and finish up a short gully.

Epinephrine historically was 5.7 R, but 3 bolts have recently (2009?) been added to the R section, making it a safer (though less bold) climb. Still some run-out in places, probably 5.7 PG now.

From the first ledge, step right into the smooth open book and climb the corner to the normal route on Epinephrine.

(May also be bolted, now?)

A few meters right of of the main corner (which "Epinephrine" ascends) is another corner, with a cave at its base.

Climb up to this corner, ascend the corner (past one old piton) exiting leftwards, then up to the same last bit and to the same anchors as "Epinephrine".

Thrash your way up to the base of a distinctive dihedral. Climb the corner enjoyably to the top.

Climb the slab to the base of the crack, traverse left to a ledge and climb the left facing corner to the anchors.

Follow the crystal seam, or not.

Start on hold at waist level on right side of boulder. Traverse left on the seam without using lip until the end

Instead of traversing left on Rocketman, climb straight for the tree belay.

Zigzag up the face, trending rightwards, to get underneath the large sloping overhang. Continue up past the overhang to easier ground.

Follow the obvious crack.

Start far left and traverse right, turn the corner and go up before it gets too mossy. Really fun with jugs and good feet everywhere. It is located east of the honte boulder and a little up the hill (before proj 16-17). Perfect boulder to warm up. You can create many other lines on this boulder.

Right-leaning wide-crack/chimney. The start is a bit awkward and may be the hardest part. But then it's fun stemming and even a bit of face climbing at the end. Protection is actually good throughout. Anchor cannot easily be accessed from above.

The large rock at/in the base of the climb has been known to shift slightly. Don't put gear behind it as it may get stuck.

Short wide crack/squeeze chimney that actually faces the opposite direction from the main line of the cliff. (You are facing "outwards" when climbing this.)

This can be climbed to access the anchors for the climbs on the front of the Flight Deck.

Climb up the featured ramp, pull past the flake and clip the bolt to protect the final move.

Start up just to the left of an undercut area, up and slight right to a bit of an arete. Head up straight toward the left corner of the huge block above (which the two adjacent sports routes go over). Us the rope anchor on the large cedar. The first hard bit is protected by a bolt.

The route could use another brushing but is pretty clean now. Be mindful of the loose soil just above where the climb ends.

Regarding the name: I had an AWFUL time getting dirt blown upward into my eyes, mouth, and ears as I was developing this. Lots of anabatic wind!

Top access down and to the (skier's) right of Ninnyhammer. Easily accessible anchor. Well bolted for easy ascent at this cliff. Currently the easiest "climb out" route.

(Currently) the left-most bolted route, about 20m left of Ninnyhammer. After starting with a step up right, head mostly straight up along the bolt line. The first few moves are 5.6, after that it is no harder than 5.5.

1-pitch from the mid-cliff anchor (which is also the end anchor for Pelennor") to the anchor. Doesn't top-out the cliff.

Starts left from the anchor.

Climb up trending consistently left up the face on good holds, until you pull onto a short slab. Finish directly up to the anchor above the next short face.

Climb the obvious large left-facing dihedral up the center of left wing. Start on easy ground up to the crux section near the end of the route.

Right of Ummagumma is a left-facing dihedral where the left wall starts as slab and turns into roof. Climb the corner and pull over the roof, then up the crack above.

From the start of "Welcome to the Machine", which is the right-most route accessible from the safety rope, follow the edge of the wall up and right until you reach a line of bolts proceeding up an angular corner. (If you continue up and right, next line of bolts is "Wish You Were Here", which is significantly harder.)

Climb the corner, pulling out left onto the slab at the top. Then angle back right above the corner and up to an anchor.

Can top-out, but leaves a bit of an exposed scramble at the top - not recommended.

At the base below the left side of the the left tit are a pair of parallel right-leaning grooves. The climb starts up the right-side one, then up passing a gnarled tree to the right and up past the left side of the left tit.

This climb does not easily top-out.

Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this.

Route is a rope-stretcher on a 70m rope.

Climb/TR/Lower-off anchor is about 2m from actual top-out. Use this one, unless actually topping out, then the higher anchor on the platform works.

After being a TR route, this spent a while as a trad line but, on gear, the route was a bit run-out in places, and gear was often small and/or tricky to place, though generally with decent stances for placing. So, retro-bolted in 2020 with permission of the FA.

When this route was first climbed on TR, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters.

Starts on top of a juniper bush below and right of a square groove through a small bulge about 4m up.

Climb up on to the slab and angle left to the square groove. Climb up this towards the obvious arete, and at the end of the groove step left onto the slab below the arete. Continue up the slab left of the arete to the anchors.

Once finished this climb, it is easy to lower or rappel to the bench and safety rope at the top of it.

Starts as per "Diggy Diggy Hole", but once established below the slab, head up and left across a dirty ledge to a hand-crack angling up and left, finishing at the big cedar tree. No bolted anchor yet.

Can be lead Trad all the way but you can borrow bolts from Diggy Diggy Hole until halfway up. Good warmup.

Cleaned fall 2023

Shared start with Diggy Diggy Hole. About 10 meters left of "Mercy Street" is a section of vertical to overhanging rock that looks like an upside-down staircase. The route starts up this.

Pull up the upside-down staircase, onto a bit of a platform and a dirty ascent for a few meters, to the base of a wide right-sloping crack full of garden. Keep heading right until you reach an overlap tending up and slightly left, follow toward the exit where we rejoin "Diggy Diggy Hole" for the bolted anchor.

Recleaned Fall 2023.

Same start as Stairway to Hell, but keep following the crack angling up and right instead of turning left. Finish on the bolted anchor for Zeit.

Climb up the bolted arete and face just left of "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle". You can access the anchor from the top by slinging one of the cedars for safety to step down to it.

A few metres left of Slab O'Doom 2.0 start up the a small bulge to holds just left of a small platform. Step left from this onto a slab then up beside the roof of Dave, Dave -- keeping the crack to your left. Pull up into the centre dihedral, climb this, then finish at the Dave anchor.

Recleaned and bolted in April 2021.

To the left of the cliff is a small, flat-topped rock with a seam at the front. Grab and mantle out of the water.

(Protection a bit thin when water level is low -- this is a spring problem. )

There is a smaller face just to the right of the main boulder, that doesn't go as high and is just slightly less than vertical. Climb this face, starting in the center and heading mostly straight upwards or a bit left.

Runs parallel to, but above, the previous route: traverse with feet along the edge between the overhang and the slab, mostly on the slab.

Climb the slightly smaller holds nearer the right side of the cliff, pulling straight over two small roofs.

Bolt added near top as a TR re-direct.

historical

From TnA wall.

The flat rock has been destroyed by trundling from above, and the start has been re-directed farther right and more direct as the next route. This record maintained for historical reasons.

Looking up at the cliff, to the right of the big right-facing wall, is a pair of bulges that look a lot like breasts, even to the extent of having cleavage in the middle (which "Tits 'n' Ass" climbs through). This route passes to the left of the left breast.

Scramble up to a flat rock sitting between the cliff and a cluster of trees. This makes a good belay stance, and the climb starts just to the right of this. Climb up the right-sloping dihedral ramp, with moss in the middle avoiding the moss, then when it ends, head more straight upwards, aiming to pass just to the left of the left breast, then up from there to the top. Build an anchor from a cluster of trees and a crack in a rock just below the trees (pink tri-cam).

The climbing is easy at the start, but the finish gets a lot more interesting.

historical

From TnA wall.

T'n'A originally avoided the first roof/bulge, starting to the left of the current line, but is no longer climbed that way.