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Summary

The most popular crag in Kenya is certainly Lukenya, located just 45 minutes from Nairobi. See more info on the MCK website: https://www.mck.or.ke/lukenya-rock-climbing/

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Description

Lukenya offers a variety of climbing routes including face climbs, some jamming cracks, and overhangs in difficulty ratings of up to E4 6b (and increasing!). The first route was opened in 1936 when Arthur Firmin put up “Arthur’s Horror” (Severe) but visitors nowadays often do the climbs in the 5b to 5c range located on Main Face, Upper Cliffs or Edinburgh Castle. Lukenya, with its good-quality routes in all grades, is also an excellent place to provide instruction and the MCK provides a chance for first-time and intermediate climbers to learn something during the Beginners’ and Intermediate Climbing Meets, each offered several times a year.

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Access issues

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

From Nairobi, take the Mombasa highway. Turn left after the Cement factory (use your GPS for Lukenya academy). Follow the signs for Lukenya academy. Carefully and slowly drive through the school to the cliffs.

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Where to stay

There’s a campsite on top of the hill, which has no facilities so you need to bring your own water, food, camping gear and carry your trash out. If you want to make a fire you’ll have to bring your own wood. Never cut trees or bushes down to preserve the environment.

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Ethic

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Main Face cliff
29
110
74m
2
Archway sector
19
46
24m
4
Warning Egyptian cliff
21
70
22m
3
Cave Crag sector
7
7
17m
2
Warning Eagle's Nest sector
12
22
27m
2
The Cemetery sector
14
51
20m
2
Fig Tree sector
14
18
32m
1
Boulder sector
6
45
16m
1
Cakewalk sector
3
19
30m
1
Square Crag sector
7
16
14m
2
Lower Cliffs sector
15
5
24m
5
Upper Cliffs sector
18
25
36m
2
Sentry Box sector
16
11
25m
3
Gumshoe sector
18
25
21m
3
Nemesis crag
20
297
20m
2
White Wall sector
1
0
10m
1
The Prow sector
5
0
21m
2
Black Slab sector
13
0
19m
2
Red Nose sector
2
1
14m
1
Agama Wall sector
3
0
17m
1
Hyrax Wall sector
3
0
13m
1
Campsite feature
-
0
0
Bouldering in Lukenya boulder field
217
321
5m
140
-
0
0
-
0
0

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