Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 5th May 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
I Forget Walls Main Cliff - South | |||||||
19 ~20 | ★★ The Forgotten Child | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Committing! Felt hard and run out, might have missed a crucial hold, but had a heavy whip from a couple meters above the 4th bolt.
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
I Forget Walls Main Cliff - North | |||||||
23 | ★★ Lactic Intolerance | 20m, 9 | |||||
Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||||
20 Hard | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really tired after 4 days of climbing decided to get on this anyway, after years of this being the trip goal and me conveniently finding an excuse not to try it.
Had my own little weekend whipper moment on it. Extended the .1 before the big side pully flake with an alpine, did the move to the big flake. With 4 days of fatigue, I started to almost instantly pump out on it. In panic tried to place a #1 under the flake which had no hope of fitting. Put the cam back in my mouth, now I truly was too pumped, couldn't even get the #1 back on my harness. Decided I had to take the whip, but really regretting how far away that alpine looked on the .1, but had no choice. Swung down, and thanks to a 30kg weight difference & me only placing nuts down low, Gabby got launched up ripping my frist 2 nuts and landing me on my butt which gave me a nice bruise. Ego bruised, we decided to rush back down so Gabby could get on her trip goal Morfydd, which she sent saving the day. Can't wait to get back on thundercrack next trip, but I'll be sure to feed Gabby some extra cupcakes before we go, or build my "oh shit" piece on the ledge so it resists upward pull. |
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Flat Rock | |||||||
West Flank | |||||||
23 | ★★ Melting Moments - with Campbell Davies | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
That dyno to the crimp got me good. Pretty tough move. I don't think you'd have to proper dyno to it if you're taller though.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
19 | ★★ Electra - with Riley Smith | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsighted the first pitch after taking almost 40min climbing up and down until I finally committed to crux. Would have continued the second pitch but we were running out of daylight so abandoned it by going left to Agamemnon's Gully.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | |||||||
21 Hard | ★★★ Chinese Algebra - with Gabrielle Austen | 48m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally got on it, probably should have waited till later in the trip as found it quite terrifying.
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Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte - with Scott | 30m, 3 | |||||
Wed 24th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight - with Scott | 18m, 5 | |||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Very sharp
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Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Slap Happy - with Scott Birse, Adam Sanders | 30m, 1 | |||||
Not to keen to loose skin
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ Claw | 20m | |||||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | |||||||
21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey - with Simon | 27m | |||||
Rain came down as I did the crux, could see the ledge was slick, but I didn't make it, slipped off just before it. Fun swing, then I was under a waterfall - the climb gets soaked in rain! Also, the slabby start was terrifying. Loved the roof moves though.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||||
24 | ★★ A Loaded Gun | 10m, 1 | |||||
Broke off to many holds to try again
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm - with James Vinnicombe | 25m, 3 | |||||
First time here was kind of a fail. Didn't have a clip stick and the first bolt is super high. We by mistake clipped the first bolt of "All my exes live in Texas" thinking it was the first bolt. Hit my feet on the boulder from a fall. Managed to get the first clip by shoving a stick in my harness and clipping from the jugs. Bailed then because it got dark. Great time overall.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
I Forget Walls Main Cliff - North | |||||||
25 | ★★ Lux Aeterna - with T-Bone, Luke Batchelor, @dalai | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had some fun while dalai worked on his project. Definitely fun, definitely should have a proper go.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got a bit too gassed on the crack, bailed cos I have places to be this arvo
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
17 | ★ Cruxless Knickers - with Lawrence Wonhas | 25m | |||||
I should be able to do 17 right? Did not want to commit above the not totally inspiring gear, so after half a dozen goes of climbing up a bit then down climbing, I down climbed to the ground.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ The Rack | 13m | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
Sentinel Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★ Media Puzzle Extension - with Tim Schofield | 18m | |||||
Had a poke past the first bolt of the extension after dogging up Media Puzzle, seemed pretty hard so back tracked and lowered to save myself for the red point attempt.
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Intransience | 25m | |||||
Didn't dig the/my gear before run out, bailed.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Halls Gap Area | |||||||
South-East Mt Difficult Range The Watchtower | |||||||
26 | ★★ My Friend Flipper | 30m, 6 | |||||
Owch my skin. Owch my pride. This did not go well
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Tannin Direct - with Tim Schofield | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I take back what I said before, this climb is more muscular than Tannin and does deserve to be a 20, or is at least physically harder than Tannin. Bailed off Wraith to this, remembering that it was "easy", but I could not deal with the thuggy jugs when I was so tired. Whipped off the roof with my tail between my legs. Not complicated but you do have to be strong, or at least fresh.
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Fri 26th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | |||||
got on the wall, moved a few moves up and then got scared to commit on slopers and risk it to the first protection. backed down
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | |||||||
6 | ★★ Exodus - with Thomas Lord | 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It did stop drizzling before we started. Then it rained too much and we abandoned after about 10m, removing gear as I down climbed.
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Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Ckinell | 28m | |||||
Spaced pro. Backed off just before the crux as I was pumping out and couldn't see much pro ahead. Found a spot for a green or purple cam but I had already placed both. Will come back and try again.
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Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | |||||||
20 | ★★ Sunset Strait - with Alex MacAdam | 60m, 1 | |||||
Very lovely slabbing! had a hoot until I got runout and spooked above the bolt, tried to place a nut, accidentally overbalanced backwards and took a 5m+ flipper whipper onto the slab. helmets are good!
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Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | |||||||
12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
1
12
45
2
8
17
3
12
31
4
8
18
| 110m, 1 | |||||
Had to bail from pitch 3. Leader knocked large rock down Chimney and I got injured dodging.
Please be careful when topping out pitch 3, many large rocks near the edge. |
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
5 | Purity - with WogBoy | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Downclimbed. Couldn't commit to moves up high without knowing where my next piece was coming from.
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Fri 1st Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | |||||||
3 |
★★★ Tiptoe Ridge P1
- with
Ben Anthonisz
| 43m | |||||
Fri 24th Nov 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Wizard of lce - with Anton Korsun | 35m | |||||
I fell off a lot and then pulled on gear, but still couldn't get to the top. A bad experience tbh. I still think I'm missing the gene for crack climbing
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | |||||||
12 | ★★ Watchtower Chimney | 110m, 1 | |||||
First time back in over a year, the head game and strength just weren't there to push through pitch 3
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | |||||
Mon 13th Nov 2023 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||||||
Van Diemen's Land | |||||||
22 | ★★ Terminal Insomnia - with Steven vdb | 30m, 7 | |||||
Too many inviting pockets at the start got me into a 13, maybe 15, move boulder problem for the first couple meters. Tendonitis flared up on underclings so decided to retreat to climb another day
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Mt Stapylton Campground | |||||||
Sentinel Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★ Media Puzzle - with Cassandra Kay Silva, Jet Winter | 16m, 6 | |||||
Pretty tough start, I'm terrible at one arm lock offs apparently.
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Mon 6th Nov 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight | 18m, 5 | |||||
🥲 dialling crux. need to get stronger
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | |||||||
The Ravine | |||||||
25 | ★★ Portland Criminals - with rew | 25m, 7 | |||||
dogged to get the draws on and remembered most of the moves TR'd the bottom half and worked out the rest of the moves, tried on lead and fell about 2 moves in (oops), tried on lead again, and fell trying to clip the second bolt when my foot slipped, and hit the ground (mega oops). Fortunately I mainly seem to be bruised and sore (thank you to all for their offers of first aid kits and checking in on how I was doing). Was able to walk out. Could have been much nastier, and am grateful that it wasn't. Have some reflections on what I could have done differently/lessons for next time. |
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Bolero Wall | |||||||
13 Hard | ★ Bolero | 10m | |||||
Goodness! Unexpected soft ground fall! Definitely harder than the 11 grading in the guidebook
|
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
11 |
★★★ Agamemnon
- with
John van Osta
1
lead by
Lucy Pople
| 40m | |||||
Climbed the first pitch, then it rained. And then it hailed. We bailed. Off to the pub for a chicken parmigiana
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||||
10 |
★★★ Lamplighter
- with
John van Osta
| 30m | |||||
Accidentally set up at the belay for Judgement Day and unwittingly sent John van Osta off on the second pitch of that (19). Obviously, wasn't enough of a challenge so took himself off up The Second Coming (22) and landed at its first (thankfully) bolted anchor. Bit more than we bargained for. Beat a hasty retreat. We'll be back, Lamplighter!
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Mon 16th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||||
24 | ★★ The Philosopher | 18m | |||||
Couldn't find the gear so backed off. Rapped down and think there's good stuff, just gotta find gear for the start.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Flat Rock | |||||||
West Flank | |||||||
25 | ★★ L'Essence | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
25 Hard | ★★ L'Essence | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wtf
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
7 | ★ Charity - with geoff woods | 14m | |||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Vandal Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Vandal - with Henry Orton | 45m | ★ Good | ||||
First gear fall of the trip.
Struggled to get established on P3. Retreated because I am quite fond of my ankles and I did not like my chances of not decking. |
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Auto Da Fe P1
- with
Josh Ring
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only climbed pitch one; ran out of daylight after spending too long working out the moves off the deck. Fantastic climbing above some questionable gear. Would love to come back and finish the other pitch(s). For me the first move involved a dyno to the sloping hole, then mantling from this up to further tricky slab moves with no pro. Real fear.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One to come back for
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Wizard of lce | 35m | |||||
Bruh
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark - with damien | 18m | |||||
Off day; crux felt too close to the deck. Hung out on bad feet for ages then failed to commit. Seconded Damien.
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Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★ The Second Coming P2
- with
Jess C
2
21
30m
| 30m | |||||
Accidentally climbed onto P1 from 'Judgement Day' and then bailed on P2 after a few metres.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||||
18 | ★★ Virginia - with tingo | 25m | |||||
bailed due to seeping wet patches and spooge and shrinking huevos
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | |||||||
22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
cruised up to the start of crux and then got entirely shot down. I'm not gonna blame my trex arms i'm gonna blame having a shit day and not wanting to try hard
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Kryptonite Krack | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First move, dyno into karate chop jam, got 1 metre up and bailed, absolutely nails. I'm not ready.
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Mt Hope | |||||||
Side Outcrop | |||||||
15 | ★★ Patho | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
CLimbed through the low bulge, got the big cam stuck, and bailed to do some rap-down bodgery before the rain set in. All up will be great to go back and send this.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Mitre Rock Deacon Area | |||||||
9 | ★ The Deacon - with WogBoy | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Downclimbed. Nil confidence in my climbing.
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Thu 4th May 2023 - South-Eastern Grampians | |||||||
Seven Dials Area The Battlements | |||||||
19 | ★ Breastwork - with angus smith | 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
A tale of two questers, deluded by their ambitions, confused in a rainstorm two days earlier, henceforth laid the chossy foundations of what was more a hike than a climb, more grit than gritstone, more a dream than reality and more choss than your neighbours compost heap. The “River of Fists”, as we had lovingly called it on our reccie, showed improbable promise, a spark in an otherwise desolate wall of choss. Its wide curving depths were intimidating yet alluring.
If only we had seen what was clear all along. The deathy roof traverse, the flaky hollow rock that cracked when you merely breathed on it, completely insurmountable, except, it seems, to those with body belays and hemp rope. Perhaps the line had succumbed to the furnace of a recent wildfire, it being a lot paler than old photos might suggest. While the crack held mostly true as an exciting river of fists, pitch one was where the fun came to an abrupt end, and the grand finale had us tentatively down-aiding, not crestfallen, just relieved at our escape. At least the crack was dry! I suggest when you walk the GPT next, make sure to never stop by |
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | |||||||
13 | ★★ Salamander - with Sam | 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
bailed after we got absolutely pissed on (thanks google weather). the 2nd pitch was very fun though.
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Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | |||||||
The Ravine | |||||||
26 Hard | ★★ Ravinous - with Daniel Borsi | 15m, 6 | |||||
Couldn't pull through the first boulder sequence off the ground as it was height dependent
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||||||
Van Diemen's Land | |||||||
24 | ★ Pussy Riot | 25m, 6 | |||||
Thu 20th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
25 | Krakatoa - with Chris G | 30m, 5 | |||||
Finger went pop! Retreated and called it a day.
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Thu 20th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | |||||
Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | |||||||
The Ravine | |||||||
25 | ★★ Portland Criminals - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 7 | |||||
blew the onsight, moved on
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | |||||||
19 | ★ Psalm 69 - with Tam Scott | 36m | |||||
Got stung by bees and retreated. Should have read the warnings 😅
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | |||||||
19 | ★★ Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman - with Alex Lawson | 18m | |||||
The guide suggested this has good gear. I either didn't find it or the statement is incorrect. Backed-off and down-climbed to avoid a back-breaking fall onto the adjacent ledge.
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Wed 12th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | |||||||
20 | ★★ A Taste of Honey Direct Start | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Also not a great route to climb in the rain, very soapy holds and the gear is a bit thin at the start making it all more spicier than I would like. But didn't weight the rope(didn't dare lol) so guess I can still come back to onsight it
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21 | ★★★ Kachoong | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Never took so many whips on gear. Thought this would be okay in the rain I was wrong, the jugs in the roof felt like they were made of soap. Also, tried climbing the wrong flake at first and probably shouldnt have placed gear in it either.
But I still feel accomplished and hope to try it again next week when it's dry. |
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||||
14 | ★★ Loyalty - with Nick Morgan | 18m | |||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||||
22 R | ★★ Devoid - with Madi R | 35m | |||||
Needs pre placed gear for the first move.
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Halls Gap Area | |||||||
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★ Bucolica | 20m, 1 | Average | ||||
Didn’t love this one. Suuuuuper contrived as you can just climb the jam crack right next to it missing half of the route. Very fiddly gear up top but with time could make it work nicely I’m sure. Felt really hard so bailed upwards with a rope we conveniently had hanging up. Will come back if I’m desperate
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Wed 29th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★ Pyrrhic Victory | 40m | |||||
Pulled through the cruxy start on second and was removing gear in a pretty awkward drop knee which my right knee decided it wanted no part in and so promptly exploded and collapsed inwards. Goodbye MCL and goodbye tick. Likely won’t be getting on this again as a result
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
19 | ★★ Electra - with Dan Bodd | 40m | |||||
ha ha ha fuck
|
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Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Flat Rock | |||||||
West Flank | |||||||
23 | ★★ Melting Moments | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One for next time and cooler temps
|
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||||
15 |
★★ Bulger
1
2
| 60m | |||||
Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||||||
Bad Moon Rising Wall | |||||||
27 | ★ Bunny Boiler - with Melissa | ||||||
didnt see the 3rd bolt when i was at the 1st bolt, so a groundfall potential on a route above my paygrade was everything i could think of and i bailed
|
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Halls Gap Area | |||||||
Southern Wonderland Range Lookout Point Wall | |||||||
11 | ★ Can't Happen Here | 25m | |||||
rock quality felt a little suspect through the roof. retreated to climb another day
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Mon 26th Dec 2022 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||||||
Taipan Wall - North | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard pitch to work as the crux is at the start! Had a play but bailed. Would be keen to get back and work out the crux as the rest of it looks fantastic
|
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||||
15 ~16 | ★★ Toccata — 2 attempts - with Daniel Borsi | 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 13th Dec 2022 - Flat Rock | |||||||
West Flank | |||||||
6 | Feeble Fusion | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
Probably got off route up top and ended up on some not so nice holds. Got more pumped then I’d want to be on a grade 6. Downclimbed from the top haha.
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
15 Hard | ★★ Necrophilliac | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Should've climbed more routes to get used to the rock before I attempted. I also shouldn't have put on both sunscreen and insect repellant right beforehand as it got in my eyes mid-climb and I couldn't see a thing haha. Had some great jams before I was able to bail without leaving any gear, fortunately.
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Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
19 | ★★ Telemachus - with Stanislav Likane | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
retreat as the rest of the day fkn cooked me (thanks Stas for letting me off the hook 😅)
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Tue 22nd Nov 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | |||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was not feeling up to this climb today. Definitely requires a full gas tank and I was feeling pretty empty. Another one to come back for!
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | |||||||
The Ravine | |||||||
22 21 | ★ Minced Beef Eaters | 20m | |||||
Couldnt figure the slabby crux
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | |||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent - with Maddie_Goss | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I was many things but a glorious Rodent was not one of them.
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Flat Rock | |||||||
West Flank | |||||||
16 | ★ Nuclear Novice | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Kelly Watch The Stars - with Sarah, Lisa Eadie | 10m | |||||
Mixed this up with Orange Crush and found the start a bit spicy. Another day.
Fantastic catch by Sarah on a relatively low nut placement. |
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Thu 15th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Lamplighter
- with
Shauno
1
10
30m
lead by
Shauno
| 60m | |||||
Wed 14th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Second Coming - with Angie | 57m | |||||
Wed 14th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders No Hands Boulders | |||||||
V2 | ★★ no hands traverse then sharp arete | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Conditions got too alpine on the arete and I was forced to retreat
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Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Second Coming - with Ben Day | 57m | |||||
Our plan was to do Lamplighter but somehow we stupidly started here instead... We tried the slippery bouldery start for an hour, thinking this is really hard for a 10 😂😂 So glad we bailed after the first 2m and realised we were on the wrong climb and did not have to leave any gear behind.
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Fri 9th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Wizard of lce - with Jack Seawright | 35m | |||||
Had a difficult time even trying to aid through this one. Utter opposite end of the grade 20 spectrum I've ever been.
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Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - Flat Rock | |||||||
West Flank | |||||||
25 | ★★ L'Essence | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hardest 25 I've ever tried
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy - with Ethan Banich | 30m | |||||
the day my dream of cleaning up all the henry barber routes evaporated. spoiler alert - they are hard. thunder crack gave me hope. I guess the fact that he basically soloed that thing should have been and indication of the absolute dominance of the man.
was in a horrible headspace to start, but got through the apparently dicey bottom section, but i'm never worried about the beginning of a climb because i'm never pumped there. got to the crux pumped out of my mind and fell on a brassy. we both heard the brassy set and thought that it never coming out. however it was set in just the way i was advised to not place brassies, with contact only near the end of the nut. still pumped, still scared, I decided to finish what I started. i climbed back into the crux, realised there were no beans to be found and whipped again. well i got that nut back that's for sure. thanks for the belay Ethan, sorry the fat winger hurt your toe. but it was really cute you were still proud of me for trying hard enough that i fell. |
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Wizard of lce - with Ethan 'I crush cracks' Banich | 35m | |||||
finally the shut down arrived. after sizing up what did not look as hard as everyone says, i thought my jambing prowess would get me through this one. boy was i wrong. goofed the feet like it was my first crack climb ever and came out, complete with a big ole gobi. rather than put some gloves on in the presence of Mr. Banich, i kindly asked him to retrieve my gear. He sent it no problem, living up to the assurance that of course he would crush this thing and it was not worth our time. Ethan also cleaned it and it is safe to say that my insistence we try this thing was a mistake. sorry Ethan, but also thank you. i'll be back after i nurse my badly bruised ego.
spoiler alert: the shutdown did not bode well for my onsight attempt of squeakeasy 10 minutes later. |
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | |||||||
21 | ★★ Parsley | 12m | |||||
Moves near the ground were too hard for me to work out. Sage was much more straight forward.
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell and couldn't get back on the line. Bruised ego and left a trail of blood behind 😆 work in progress
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Tue 17th May 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
24 24 R | ★★ Morning Thunder - with Ethan 'The Slammer' Banich | 30m | |||||
Ethan jumped on this and got the roof and declared bullshit on the part of the guidebook authors. bailed to go get scared on something more noteworthy.
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Fri 6th May 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||||
13 | ★ Social Comment - with Sally Baker | 37m | |||||
This climb and the moves for the step across felt remarkably harder than The Venus Trap that we had just come from! I hadn't read the comments or book so followed the very misleading chalk marks that take the higher option. The crimps and very wide step across are simply not like any other 13 I've ever climbed! We then got to the belay and two moves up when it started to rain, too much for the polished Araps glass so we retreated and used the chains at the top to clean the gear. Probably not enticing enough for me to return and finish it
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | |||||||
18 | ★ The Hard Ears - with Tye | 13m | |||||
Retreated due to rain. Got the crux beta for next time (look for the ring-lock out right)
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | |||||
Took on piece at crux which blew... followe by my next piece. Landed head down on wrist. Broken wrist.
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||||
22 | Wyrd Left Hand Variant | 35m | Average | ||||
Accidentally ended up on this. Shoulda looked at the topo properly
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