Ascents in Australia by Michael Tanner

Climbed via wailing cockatoos. Great day out!

Fell going for the last crimp before the juggy horizontal break 2m from the top. I waxed lyrical about how good Clean Sweep is but this could be even better? For the first 2/3rds it’s slightly easier and much better protected than its compatriot to the left, but whereas Clean Sweep eases off in the top 15m Dance of Life just keeps going. I’m not sure the crimp moves are necessarily that much harder than the rest of the climb, but compared to CS it’s just so sustained for a full 40 odd metres…

Didn’t take enough long slings so rope drag was pretty awful in the top 10m or so - lesson learned there. Best bit about dropping an onsight like this right at the top is having the excuse to go do it again.

Always a special experience to knock out a hard Taipan classic. This is something special for sure - pretty nails first move then ultra-sustained, unique scoop climbing to the top of the wall. They don’t get much better. Definitely 29 in my book, probably even at the upper end of the grade.

Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.

It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above.

10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched!

2nd go. not sure it’s any harder than Father Oblivion… crux went down 3rd attempt with a high right foot and a pogo.

Top 6 pitches. Some kind of introduction to conglomerate slab climbing…

Absolute classic, better climbing and rock than Deeper Water. One to come back to for sure.

Hard sport climbing par excellence. They simply do not get better. 12 days work since the middle of August. Definitely a sandbag, I’d give it hard 29 to the break where it meets Serpentine, with a pumpy 27 to the top. Maybe close to 31?